Panama's Pacific Coast Beach Guide - Part 1

The history of beach towns along the Pacific Coast inby local police Veracruz now rates as a high-crime
Panama is coupled to the history of the Panamaarea.
Canal. Most of the population that settled theseVeracruz, is nestled between the beautiful Pacific
Pacific beaches came from small villages that now areOcean and the base of lush green mountains. The
under the waters of the Panama Canal. They weredrive is about thirty minutes to downtown Panama,
relocated from their hometowns and settled alongand only fifteen to twenty minutes to get to Balboa,
the coast so that their villages could be flooded overPanama which has just about everything one could
and turned into the floor of Lake Gatun.need or want for everyday living.
The major problem with the beaches in the area ofThe former US Howard Airforce Base which is
the canal and just past the canal area is the debrislocated just in front of the area of Veracruz, and
that washes up on the beaches. Part of the debris isformer Rodman Naval Station recently received
from the city itself and another contributing factorapproved legislation to become a free trade zone for
are the ships waiting to transit the canal. Recentlythe Pacific making this another area to watch for
Panama City began a clean up project for Panamagrowth explosion.
Bay which will include a new water treatment plantPlaya Chumical
and sewage system for the city. Of course, theVeracruz, flows into Veracruz de Chumical. Chumical,
problem wasn't recreated overnight and it won't behas a sand and volcanic rock beach that is cleaner
fixed overnight, but at least we begin. This should cutthan Veracruz, the homes are larger and better
down on some of the debris that washes ashore.maintained. In this town are fishermen and residents
However, unless stricter ordinances are put in placethat work in the city. Chumical is the cleanest of the
and imposed with consistency on the residents andpublic access beaches since leaving Panama City.
the vessel in the bay the beaches will continue to beEntrance to the beach can be gained by the various
trashy.paths the allow access between the houses. There is
Panama's FarFan Beachnothing but open water and islands to be viewed
Across the bridge of the Americas in first position isfrom the coast in Chumical. There are no concessions
Panama's Farfan Beach. The roads are a little rough,or commerce on this stretch of beach.
similar to a forgotten county road in the US, roughThe day I visited I found a delightful sight. Three
road patches and peppered with a some potholes.children playing in a tide pool whiling away the hours in
Even with the road conditions, once you've crossedthe Panama sun. They stopped long enough to allow
the bridge it is only a two minute drive to theme to take their pictures. Their presence definitely
entrance of Farfan Beach. The first thing you willadded to the beauty of the scenery.
notice is the barricade that blocks the paved road'sPlayita Vacamonte and Vacamonte Port (Vaco
approach to the abandoned beach area. The secondMonte)
thing of notice is Panama's Balboa Gun Club positionedPlayita Vacamonte, Panama sits just outside the
directly next to the barricade. The third thing youofficial entrance to the Vacamonte Port. It is the
should notice is the alternate off road paths thatsmallest of the public access beaches since leaving
have been created to access the beach.Panama City. Like Panama's Playa Bonita, this area is a
Panama's now forgotten Farfan Beach was once alittle rustic since it set road side and you have to
hot spot as is evidenced by the abandon concretedescend a steep hill to reach the beach area. Parking
concession stand that was once complete with toiletsis minimal but the view is breath taking. The waters
facilities. Farfan is a canal beach, from the concessionhere are clean and the Vacamonte Port area is well
area you can look out to the left and see Panama'smaintained free from the normal roadside debris.
Amador Causeway with a clear view of Naos IslandThe Vacamonte Port of Panama is an international
and the Smithsonian Institute's Culebra Island. Lookingport. You will need to show your passport to the
straight ahead you can view large and small vesselsguard and enter the area.
anchored just outside the Panama Canal waiting forVacamonte Port consists of a few small building and
permission to begin their transit and since the canal isa port of industrial fishing. The port has two wharves
operational twenty four hours day, seven days aand a pier. In the port are all manner of fishing boats
week, you are sure to see a vessels at the beginningwhose main commodities are shrimp, shark, tuna, and
of its transit.various local fish. The fish are sold to the general
Since Farfan is no longer managed, tall grass nowpublic from 8:00 until 2:00. There's a bank and a
covers some areas of the once popular beach, fromrestaurant in the port. Shop early if you want small
the well worn grooves made by vehicles that drivefish for your home, the small fish sell out early.
out to the beach area it is evident that Panama'sFrom Vacamonte International Port seafood is
Farfan Beach still receives it's share of visitors. Even ifshipped all over the world.
you choose not to drive off road, it only a shortPeurto Caimito
blocks walk past the barricade on the paved road toPeurto Caimito, Panama is home to Mariano Rivera,
the beach area.relief pitcher for the New York Yankees. Mariano has
It's important to note, being a Florida transplant; thea large home just outside of Peurto Camito, and with
beach here is not sandy but mostly volcanic rock.residents like this it is hard to list Peurto Caimito
However, it is well worth the time to drive out andamong the forgotten beaches of Panama, but we
see the canal area from this prospective; spend acan definitely call it off the beaten path. Puerto
little time imagining this area in its glory day. I hopeCaimito is situated at the mouth of the Caimito River,
there are better days to come for this forgottenand is a commercial fishing town with a fish meal
recreational area.processing plant and is an old pirate village
Panama's Playa Bonita/Playa KobbeOf all the places previously listed Peurto Caimito
Panama's Playa Bonita is also a beach on the canal, itcaught my attention and begged me to stay a while.
is a little rustic in location. It sits beside the road withIt's hard to say if it was the signs that hang from
just a little pull off spot along an old bridge. The areathe homes along the beach front road that entice
never had a concession or toilet facilities and theyou with promises of fresh fish for sale. Or maybe
beach area is a steep drop from the road. Fromit's the thought of the fishing boat moored behind
under the old bridge a river empties into the canal.the house that go out on the rising tide, when the
Many of the beach areas in Panama are fed sand andwater has sufficiently covered the vast expanse of
water from Panama's rivers. This is note worthy tobeach and brings the day's catch to vendors living in
swimmers who might encounter the whirlpools theythe houses. I was also struck by it was the
create as the rivers empty their content into thefishermen tending to net repairs and daily
larger body of water.maintenance of their outboard fishing boat on the
From Playa Bonita you can see the bridge of thebeach. And rusty vessels in the port and as well as
America's and the hill the old Howard Air Force Basethe few rusted past use on the far end of town
is on. The beach was a mix of sand and volcanic rockwhere the road ended at the ship yard. The child in
and was from a Florida transplant perspective, a bitme came out saw I watched a town's child climbing in
trashy.and out of the rushed out boat hull on the beach. I
A four star resort area has been built on the road tocould have spent the day climbing, exploring, poking,
Playa Bonita, InterContinental Playa Bonita Resort &and turning things over.
Spa. About ten minutes from the actual area ofPeurto Caimito, residents are mostly descendants of
Majagual, fourty Minutes from Panama City'sthe island peoples and a lower socioeconomic class
International Airport Tocumen.level that live off the sea. They catch sardines or
Panama's Playa Veracruz - the local beachanchovies, they have no refrigeration, so the boats
Panama's Play Veracruz is still a busy local beach.all smell and are sealed with a slime of fish oil.
There are roughly twelve rancho style concessionsThere is a couple of large ranchitos on the beach
along the beach where you can enjoy entire friedwith patios facing the beach, music blaring loudly. The
sea bass for three to five dollars and beers for sixtybeach was easily accessible and was mostly sand.
cents. Playa Veracruz flows all the way into theWe didn't see anyone swimming or lounging, but was
beach town of Veracruz.week day and from the positions of the ranchitos I
Veracruz, Panama is located approximately twentywould wager to say to some extent the weekends
five minutes from Panama City and known for itsbring pleasure seekers to the area. The smell of
various fish markets, it is a small fishing village that iswood cook stoves and signs selling carbon add to
made up mostly of lower socioeconomic class level.experience that was hard to leave behind as my day
.ended.
Veracruz, once was an attractive area in front of USIf leaving with locals and cheap land with ocean front
Howard Airforce base. It's city park once had aproperty appeals to you, it will probably also appeal
concrete concession stand complete with toiletsto you to know that El Chorrera is only fifteen
facilities, swimming pools, and sheltered picnic tables.minutes back up the road and has practically
The abandoned structures are still standing in theeverything necessary for living a comfortable life in
park area. A small fee was paid to gain entrance toPuerto Caimita.
the park. But based upon recent reported incidents