| I had really enjoyed my breakfast at the
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| | Empire Loyalists under the leadership of
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| Garrison House B&B in Annapolis Royal,
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| | Sir Robert Digby. The town's economy is
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| but my second day of explorations had
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| | based on two major industries: fishing
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| begun and no time was to be wasted. I had
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| | (Digby is famous for its scallop fishing
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| a big drive ahead of me and my first
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| | fleet) and tourism. As early as the late
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| quick stop was at Fort Anne where I met
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| | 1920, a big resort called The Pines was
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| Alan Melanson, the Parks Canada Ranger
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| | built on the outskirts of town, and to
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| and expert historian who had guided the
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| | this day Digby is a popular tourist
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| entertaining and informative Candlelight
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| | destination. One of the major attractions
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| Graveyard Tour last night.
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| | in the area are the world's biggest tides
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| He had promised me yesterday that he
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| | in the Bay of Fundy. Digby also hosts an
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| would show me the Fort Anne Heritage
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| | annual Scallop Days Festival which
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| Tapestry, a collective effort of more
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| | introduces tourists to the history and
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| than 100 volunteers who brought 4
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| | heritage of the town.
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| centuries of history to life. 95
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| | I strolled along the waterfront and
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| different colours of Persian wool were
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| | noticed the many waterfront restaurants
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| interwoven and stitched to form a
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| | that specialize in so many of Nova
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| historic tableau that is unique in
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| | Scotia's marine delights including
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| Canada. It is about 18 feet long and 8
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| | lobster, crabs, shrimps, scallops and
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| feet high and even Queen Elizabeth
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| | various types of fish. I had a quick soup
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| herself, on one of her travels to Canada,
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| | and salad at the Shoreline Restaurant and
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| made a few official stitches in this
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| | enjoyed my lunch with a nice view of the
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| tapestry. Alan himself, as a 9th
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| | waterfront. Less than an hour later I
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| generation Acadian, added to the artwork
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| | hopped back into my car to continue my
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| by stitching a few drops of red blood in
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| | journey to Yarmouth.
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| the section on the Acadian deportation.
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| | The coastal road turned into a highway
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| Pressed for time I thanked Alan and made
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| | which I exited at St. Bernard where one
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| my way to another unique facility in
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| | of Nova Scotia's biggest stone churches
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| Annapolis Royal: the Tidal Power
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| | is located. I had entered the St. Marys
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| Generation Station. Les West who works in
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| | Bay area which ended up being the final
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| the tourism office located on the main
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| | settlement area for many of the Acadians,
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| floor of the power plant, gave me a quick
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| | French settlers who had been deported as
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| half hour introduction to the only tidal
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| | part of the Great Expulsion in the mid
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| power generating plant in Canada, one of
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| | 18th century. After having been deported
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| only two in the world. Les explained that
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| | all over North America, many Acadians
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| Nova Scotia uses a variety of electricity
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| | returned to Nova Scotia over the
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| generating methods, including oil, gas,
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| | following decades. Although they did not
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| hydro, wind and tidal power. Its
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| | settle in their original agricultural
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| topography with its low-lying hills is
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| | farming areas, as they had been assigned
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| not perfectly suited for hydro
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| | to English settlers, many Acadians
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| generation, so during the 1970s, when oil
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| | located their permanent residences along
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| prices were really high, the government
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| | the northwest shore of Nova Scotia and
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| devised plans to take advantage of tidal
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| | became fishermen.
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| energy.
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| | The Acadian settlers were devout
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| The Annapolis Royal site was chosen due
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| | Catholics and many villages boast
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| to its high tides and a permanent
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| | magnificent churches, many of them made
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| causeway was built across the Annapolis
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| | from wood. One of the finest examples is
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| River. A stainless steel straight-flow
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| | St. Mary's Church at Church Point, the
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| turbine was installed by a Swiss
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| | largest wooden church in North America.
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| engineering firm and from 1980 onward
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| | Its bell tower is an impressive 56 metres
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| tidal energy was taken advantage of.
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| | (185 feet) high. The Centre Acadien de
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| Today the Annapolis Royal Tidal
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| | Université Sainte-Anne is located right
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| Generating Plant produces enough energy
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| | next to this church, and it is Nova
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| for about 4500 homes in the area. More
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| | Scotia's only French language university,
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| power is brought in as back-up when the
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| | right in the heart of Acadian culture.
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| tidal power plant does not produce enough
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| | The entire region is called Clare and
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| energy.
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| | denotes the Acadian heritage area.
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| Les also explained that the construction
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| | Acadian culture is celebrated every year
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| of the power plant and the permanent
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| | in August when the world's oldest
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| barrier in the river has had significant
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| | festival, the Festival Acadien de Clare,
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| effects on the eco-system in the
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| | celebrates Acadian heritage, traditions,
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| Annapolis River: the river has silted up
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| | food and music. The Musique de la Baie
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| considerably and sediment builds up at a
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| | festival takes place every year from
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| rate of about 6 inches a month. Because
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| | April to August and celebrates Acadian
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| of the significant ecological
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| | culture and folklore.
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| consequences of this construction it is
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| | Further south, the village of Mavillette
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| unlikely that a similar project will be
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| | boasts a special attraction: a 2 km long
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| built in the future. However,
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| | sandy beach that attracts swimmers,
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| electricity-generating projects that do
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| | surfers and sunbathers. Boardwalks across
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| not create permanent barriers may still
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| | the grass-covered dunes provide access to
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| be considered in areas of strong tidal
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| | Mavillette Beach which offers a great
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| current flows. Lessons have been learnt
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| | view of the Cape St. Mary's fishing wharf
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| from the realization that even though
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| | and lighthouse. A bird-watching platform
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| tidal power in theory is a renewable,
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| | provides a good view of various
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| green source of energy, the design of the
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| | indigenous and migratory birds.
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| power plant can still have a major effect
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| | As the late afternoon sun was starting to
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| on the local environment.
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| | cast long shadows I made my way further
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| It was time to say goodbye to Annapolis
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| | south and drove along the rocky, sparsely
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| Royal after an interesting 20 hours or so
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| | treed coastline and decided to follow a
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| in this historic region and make my way
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| | curvy road without knowing exactly where
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| westwards towards the Bear River Heritage
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| | it would take me. Fog was rolling in and
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| and Cultural Center where I would receive
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| | the sky was becoming more ominous. As the
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| an interesting introduction to Nova
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| | road came to a dead end I realized that I
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| Scotia's Mi'kmaq culture (written up in a
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| | had arrived at the Cape Forchu
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| separate article). I set off on my
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| | Lighthouse, with its rare apple core
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| coastal drive through rolling green hills
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| | design, which is situated on a dramatic
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| whose colours were just changing. Tidy
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| | coastline with interesting rock
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| little villages such as Upper Clements
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| | formations.
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| and Clementsport were flying by until I
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| | The first lighthouse was constructed here
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| turned northwards into the Bear River
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| | in 1840 in order to protect vessels
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| reserve for my visit at Bear River
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| | entering the Yarmouth Harbour and today
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| Cultural and Heritage Centre.
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| | the complex is a historic site. The
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| After my two hour introduction to native
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| | little museum and gift shop were closed
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| culture in Nova Scotia I set off again on
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| | and the lighthouse appeared rather
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| my westward drive and enjoyed the
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| | lonesome on its rocky outcropping. The
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| beautiful views along the meandering Bear
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| | dense blanket of fog gave it a very
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| River. I linked up with the coastal road
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| | mysterious appearance.
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| again and slowly made my way into Digby,
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| | It was starting to get dark and it was
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| a local fishing town and a major
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| | time to drive into the town of Yarmouth
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| settlement in the area. I parked my car
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| | where I would be able to settle in
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| and decided to take a quick stroll
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| | comfortably for the evening at the
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| through Digby on a beautiful sunny and
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| | MacKinnon-Cann Inn, a unique historical
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| warm afternoon.
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| | property.
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| Digby was settled in 1783 by the United
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|