Discover Green Bay area
 

Welcome to our Green Bay Archive. Have fun browsing!

 

Article #98: Hello From Nova Scotia - Driving On The Evangeline Trail From Annapolis Royal To Yarmouth

(Browse for more articles)

 
I had really enjoyed my breakfast at the Empire Loyalists under the leadership of
Garrison House B&B in Annapolis Royal, Sir Robert Digby. The town's economy is
but my second day of explorations had based on two major industries: fishing
begun and no time was to be wasted. I had (Digby is famous for its scallop fishing
a big drive ahead of me and my first fleet) and tourism. As early as the late
quick stop was at Fort Anne where I met 1920, a big resort called The Pines was
Alan Melanson, the Parks Canada Ranger built on the outskirts of town, and to
and expert historian who had guided the this day Digby is a popular tourist
entertaining and informative Candlelight destination. One of the major attractions
Graveyard Tour last night. in the area are the world's biggest tides
He had promised me yesterday that he in the Bay of Fundy. Digby also hosts an
would show me the Fort Anne Heritage annual Scallop Days Festival which
Tapestry, a collective effort of more introduces tourists to the history and
than 100 volunteers who brought 4 heritage of the town.
centuries of history to life. 95 I strolled along the waterfront and
different colours of Persian wool were noticed the many waterfront restaurants
interwoven and stitched to form a that specialize in so many of Nova
historic tableau that is unique in Scotia's marine delights including
Canada. It is about 18 feet long and 8 lobster, crabs, shrimps, scallops and
feet high and even Queen Elizabeth various types of fish. I had a quick soup
herself, on one of her travels to Canada, and salad at the Shoreline Restaurant and
made a few official stitches in this enjoyed my lunch with a nice view of the
tapestry. Alan himself, as a 9th waterfront. Less than an hour later I
generation Acadian, added to the artwork hopped back into my car to continue my
by stitching a few drops of red blood in journey to Yarmouth.
the section on the Acadian deportation. The coastal road turned into a highway
Pressed for time I thanked Alan and made which I exited at St. Bernard where one
my way to another unique facility in of Nova Scotia's biggest stone churches
Annapolis Royal: the Tidal Power is located. I had entered the St. Marys
Generation Station. Les West who works in Bay area which ended up being the final
the tourism office located on the main settlement area for many of the Acadians,
floor of the power plant, gave me a quick French settlers who had been deported as
half hour introduction to the only tidal part of the Great Expulsion in the mid
power generating plant in Canada, one of 18th century. After having been deported
only two in the world. Les explained that all over North America, many Acadians
Nova Scotia uses a variety of electricity returned to Nova Scotia over the
generating methods, including oil, gas, following decades. Although they did not
hydro, wind and tidal power. Its settle in their original agricultural
topography with its low-lying hills is farming areas, as they had been assigned
not perfectly suited for hydro to English settlers, many Acadians
generation, so during the 1970s, when oil located their permanent residences along
prices were really high, the government the northwest shore of Nova Scotia and
devised plans to take advantage of tidal became fishermen.
energy. The Acadian settlers were devout
The Annapolis Royal site was chosen due Catholics and many villages boast
to its high tides and a permanent magnificent churches, many of them made
causeway was built across the Annapolis from wood. One of the finest examples is
River. A stainless steel straight-flow St. Mary's Church at Church Point, the
turbine was installed by a Swiss largest wooden church in North America.
engineering firm and from 1980 onward Its bell tower is an impressive 56 metres
tidal energy was taken advantage of. (185 feet) high. The Centre Acadien de
Today the Annapolis Royal Tidal Université Sainte-Anne is located right
Generating Plant produces enough energy next to this church, and it is Nova
for about 4500 homes in the area. More Scotia's only French language university,
power is brought in as back-up when the right in the heart of Acadian culture.
tidal power plant does not produce enough The entire region is called Clare and
energy. denotes the Acadian heritage area.
Les also explained that the construction Acadian culture is celebrated every year
of the power plant and the permanent in August when the world's oldest
barrier in the river has had significant festival, the Festival Acadien de Clare,
effects on the eco-system in the celebrates Acadian heritage, traditions,
Annapolis River: the river has silted up food and music. The Musique de la Baie
considerably and sediment builds up at a festival takes place every year from
rate of about 6 inches a month. Because April to August and celebrates Acadian
of the significant ecological culture and folklore.
consequences of this construction it is Further south, the village of Mavillette
unlikely that a similar project will be boasts a special attraction: a 2 km long
built in the future. However, sandy beach that attracts swimmers,
electricity-generating projects that do surfers and sunbathers. Boardwalks across
not create permanent barriers may still the grass-covered dunes provide access to
be considered in areas of strong tidal Mavillette Beach which offers a great
current flows. Lessons have been learnt view of the Cape St. Mary's fishing wharf
from the realization that even though and lighthouse. A bird-watching platform
tidal power in theory is a renewable, provides a good view of various
green source of energy, the design of the indigenous and migratory birds.
power plant can still have a major effect As the late afternoon sun was starting to
on the local environment. cast long shadows I made my way further
It was time to say goodbye to Annapolis south and drove along the rocky, sparsely
Royal after an interesting 20 hours or so treed coastline and decided to follow a
in this historic region and make my way curvy road without knowing exactly where
westwards towards the Bear River Heritage it would take me. Fog was rolling in and
and Cultural Center where I would receive the sky was becoming more ominous. As the
an interesting introduction to Nova road came to a dead end I realized that I
Scotia's Mi'kmaq culture (written up in a had arrived at the Cape Forchu
separate article). I set off on my Lighthouse, with its rare apple core
coastal drive through rolling green hills design, which is situated on a dramatic
whose colours were just changing. Tidy coastline with interesting rock
little villages such as Upper Clements formations.
and Clementsport were flying by until I The first lighthouse was constructed here
turned northwards into the Bear River in 1840 in order to protect vessels
reserve for my visit at Bear River entering the Yarmouth Harbour and today
Cultural and Heritage Centre. the complex is a historic site. The
After my two hour introduction to native little museum and gift shop were closed
culture in Nova Scotia I set off again on and the lighthouse appeared rather
my westward drive and enjoyed the lonesome on its rocky outcropping. The
beautiful views along the meandering Bear dense blanket of fog gave it a very
River. I linked up with the coastal road mysterious appearance.
again and slowly made my way into Digby, It was starting to get dark and it was
a local fishing town and a major time to drive into the town of Yarmouth
settlement in the area. I parked my car where I would be able to settle in
and decided to take a quick stroll comfortably for the evening at the
through Digby on a beautiful sunny and MacKinnon-Cann Inn, a unique historical
warm afternoon. property.
Digby was settled in 1783 by the United






1 - A - B - C - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 16 - 17 - 18 - 19 - 20 - 21 - 22 - 23 - 24 - 25 - 26 - 27 - 28 - 29 - 30 - 31 - 32 - 33 - 34 - 35 - 36 - 37 - 38 - 39 - 40 - 41 - 42 - 43 - 44 - 45 - 46 - 47 - 48 - 49 - 50 - 51 - 52 - 53 - 54 - 55 -