| I had really enjoyed my breakfast at the Garrison | | | | Loyalists under the leadership of Sir Robert Digby. |
| House B&B in Annapolis Royal, but my second day of | | | | The town's economy is based on two major |
| explorations had begun and no time was to be | | | | industries: fishing (Digby is famous for its scallop |
| wasted. I had a big drive ahead of me and my first | | | | fishing fleet) and tourism. As early as the late 1920, a |
| quick stop was at Fort Anne where I met Alan | | | | big resort called The Pines was built on the outskirts |
| Melanson, the Parks Canada Ranger and expert | | | | of town, and to this day Digby is a popular tourist |
| historian who had guided the entertaining and | | | | destination. One of the major attractions in the area |
| informative Candlelight Graveyard Tour last night. | | | | are the world's biggest tides in the Bay of Fundy. |
| He had promised me yesterday that he would show | | | | Digby also hosts an annual Scallop Days Festival which |
| me the Fort Anne Heritage Tapestry, a collective | | | | introduces tourists to the history and heritage of the |
| effort of more than 100 volunteers who brought 4 | | | | town. |
| centuries of history to life. 95 different colours of | | | | I strolled along the waterfront and noticed the many |
| Persian wool were interwoven and stitched to form a | | | | waterfront restaurants that specialize in so many of |
| historic tableau that is unique in Canada. It is about 18 | | | | Nova Scotia's marine delights including lobster, crabs, |
| feet long and 8 feet high and even Queen Elizabeth | | | | shrimps, scallops and various types of fish. I had a |
| herself, on one of her travels to Canada, made a | | | | quick soup and salad at the Shoreline Restaurant and |
| few official stitches in this tapestry. Alan himself, as a | | | | enjoyed my lunch with a nice view of the |
| 9th generation Acadian, added to the artwork by | | | | waterfront. Less than an hour later I hopped back |
| stitching a few drops of red blood in the section on | | | | into my car to continue my journey to Yarmouth. |
| the Acadian deportation. | | | | The coastal road turned into a highway which I |
| Pressed for time I thanked Alan and made my way | | | | exited at St. Bernard where one of Nova Scotia's |
| to another unique facility in Annapolis Royal: the Tidal | | | | biggest stone churches is located. I had entered the |
| Power Generation Station. Les West who works in | | | | St. Marys Bay area which ended up being the final |
| the tourism office located on the main floor of the | | | | settlement area for many of the Acadians, French |
| power plant, gave me a quick half hour introduction | | | | settlers who had been deported as part of the Great |
| to the only tidal power generating plant in Canada, | | | | Expulsion in the mid 18th century. After having been |
| one of only two in the world. Les explained that | | | | deported all over North America, many Acadians |
| Nova Scotia uses a variety of electricity generating | | | | returned to Nova Scotia over the following decades. |
| methods, including oil, gas, hydro, wind and tidal | | | | Although they did not settle in their original agricultural |
| power. Its topography with its low-lying hills is not | | | | farming areas, as they had been assigned to English |
| perfectly suited for hydro generation, so during the | | | | settlers, many Acadians located their permanent |
| 1970s, when oil prices were really high, the | | | | residences along the northwest shore of Nova Scotia |
| government devised plans to take advantage of tidal | | | | and became fishermen. |
| energy. | | | | The Acadian settlers were devout Catholics and |
| The Annapolis Royal site was chosen due to its high | | | | many villages boast magnificent churches, many of |
| tides and a permanent causeway was built across | | | | them made from wood. One of the finest examples |
| the Annapolis River. A stainless steel straight-flow | | | | is St. Mary's Church at Church Point, the largest |
| turbine was installed by a Swiss engineering firm and | | | | wooden church in North America. Its bell tower is an |
| from 1980 onward tidal energy was taken advantage | | | | impressive 56 metres (185 feet) high. The Centre |
| of. Today the Annapolis Royal Tidal Generating Plant | | | | Acadien de Université Sainte-Anne is located |
| produces enough energy for about 4500 homes in | | | | right next to this church, and it is Nova Scotia's only |
| the area. More power is brought in as back-up when | | | | French language university, right in the heart of |
| the tidal power plant does not produce enough | | | | Acadian culture. |
| energy. | | | | The entire region is called Clare and denotes the |
| Les also explained that the construction of the | | | | Acadian heritage area. Acadian culture is celebrated |
| power plant and the permanent barrier in the river | | | | every year in August when the world's oldest |
| has had significant effects on the eco-system in the | | | | festival, the Festival Acadien de Clare, celebrates |
| Annapolis River: the river has silted up considerably | | | | Acadian heritage, traditions, food and music. The |
| and sediment builds up at a rate of about 6 inches a | | | | Musique de la Baie festival takes place every year |
| month. Because of the significant ecological | | | | from April to August and celebrates Acadian culture |
| consequences of this construction it is unlikely that a | | | | and folklore. |
| similar project will be built in the future. However, | | | | Further south, the village of Mavillette boasts a |
| electricity-generating projects that do not create | | | | special attraction: a 2 km long sandy beach that |
| permanent barriers may still be considered in areas of | | | | attracts swimmers, surfers and sunbathers. |
| strong tidal current flows. Lessons have been learnt | | | | Boardwalks across the grass-covered dunes provide |
| from the realization that even though tidal power in | | | | access to Mavillette Beach which offers a great view |
| theory is a renewable, green source of energy, the | | | | of the Cape St. Mary's fishing wharf and lighthouse. A |
| design of the power plant can still have a major | | | | bird-watching platform provides a good view of |
| effect on the local environment. | | | | various indigenous and migratory birds. |
| It was time to say goodbye to Annapolis Royal after | | | | As the late afternoon sun was starting to cast long |
| an interesting 20 hours or so in this historic region and | | | | shadows I made my way further south and drove |
| make my way westwards towards the Bear River | | | | along the rocky, sparsely treed coastline and decided |
| Heritage and Cultural Center where I would receive | | | | to follow a curvy road without knowing exactly |
| an interesting introduction to Nova Scotia's Mi'kmaq | | | | where it would take me. Fog was rolling in and the |
| culture (written up in a separate article). I set off on | | | | sky was becoming more ominous. As the road came |
| my coastal drive through rolling green hills whose | | | | to a dead end I realized that I had arrived at the |
| colours were just changing. Tidy little villages such as | | | | Cape Forchu Lighthouse, with its rare apple core |
| Upper Clements and Clementsport were flying by | | | | design, which is situated on a dramatic coastline with |
| until I turned northwards into the Bear River reserve | | | | interesting rock formations. |
| for my visit at Bear River Cultural and Heritage | | | | The first lighthouse was constructed here in 1840 in |
| Centre. | | | | order to protect vessels entering the Yarmouth |
| After my two hour introduction to native culture in | | | | Harbour and today the complex is a historic site. The |
| Nova Scotia I set off again on my westward drive | | | | little museum and gift shop were closed and the |
| and enjoyed the beautiful views along the | | | | lighthouse appeared rather lonesome on its rocky |
| meandering Bear River. I linked up with the coastal | | | | outcropping. The dense blanket of fog gave it a very |
| road again and slowly made my way into Digby, a | | | | mysterious appearance. |
| local fishing town and a major settlement in the area. | | | | It was starting to get dark and it was time to drive |
| I parked my car and decided to take a quick stroll | | | | into the town of Yarmouth where I would be able to |
| through Digby on a beautiful sunny and warm | | | | settle in comfortably for the evening at the |
| afternoon. | | | | MacKinnon-Cann Inn, a unique historical property. |
| Digby was settled in 1783 by the United Empire | | | | |